My Father Cigars Factory Grand Opening Celebration - Esteli, Nicaragua

28 Aug, 2009

In an industry known for it's work ethic - there is a time for hard work - and there is a time to celebrate. This weekend of 29 Aug, 2009 was a time for the latter.

Although the new My Father Cigars factory in Esteli was already in full production for a short while, the Garcias invited their family of clients to join them for a gala celebration. In turn, their clients invited some of their clients - and so I and a couple of other retailers were lucky enough to join in the festivities thanks to Pete Johnson of Tatuaje.

Having made the trip to Esteli to visit the old Garcia factory, I knew a few things to expect during my travels - but as any good story goes - I could never have written the events as they transpired without looking back on them.

My flight to Miami to pick up the first of two flights to Managua on Friday had to be booked on a separate itinerary. This is bad travel mojo, I know, but the arrival in Miami was too close to get booked the whole way through to Managua. Basically, I had an hour between flights. If on time, this shouldn't be a problem. At least I thought. I argued to my inner critic that the Managua flight was always late anyway. What I failed to remember was that the flight from Columbus to Miami was on a commuter jet that taxi'd to the tarmac instead of a gate. I realized this as we arrived 10 minutes later than expected and the announcement inside the airplane said that a bus would take us to gate D38. I hurried to find the layout of Miami airport in the airline magazine.

Once we came to a stop I turned on the iPhone and texted Pete. "What gate". "E11 - did you land?" came back seconds later. I didn't know it at the time, but they were already onboard. In what seemed like an eternity, we sat on the plane waiting for our carry-on luggage to be unloaded before we were allowed to deboard and scramble to the bus that had pulled up to take us to D38. D38 to E11, I was told via text, was a 10 minute walk in the airport. "Run ... Very Fast" was the next thing that popped up on my phone. By the time the bus was loaded and we slowly made our way to the gate, I was sweating with panic. "No way to make it in time - they have to be boarding already", I told myself. As we approached the gate I received, "You have until 10:50 to make it to the gate - RUN". It was 10:45 when I was the first to sprint from the bus, head-on into a locked glass door. After it was opened, I took off. I had NO idea how to get to E11, only that I could see the E terminal stretching to the right in my peripheral vision.

I don't remember the next 5 minutes. The O.J. Simpson commercial from my youth flashed through my head - but I had to block it out because I was now laughing at myself - 6'4" / 240 wearing R&R jeans that were not made for running and being in no way similar to the graceful running back that jumped over the terminal benches with just a briefcase in his hand. I had a duffle bag bouncing from my leg to the unfortunate travellers that I passed while luckily making only one wrong turn in the maze of airport hallways. I arrived at the E11 gate at 10:50 - panting and sweating - with a look on my face that obviously read "I am too late ..." The airline attendent had closed the door already and was printing the travel log of passengers. But they knew I was coming - so I was very lucky.

I got on the plane - said my Hello's to those up front in Business Class - still in a sweat and daze from what just transpired. As I made my way to my seat in the back - I couldn't wait to fall asleep. I was out. Apparently, I missed John Gonzalez (VP of sales) coming back to say there was room up front and to come on up. As he later explained, 'I wasn't about to wake you up - you're a big guy'. A quick flight later, I was awake and landing in Managua.

By the time I made my way through Customs, almost everyone that was on the flight was waiting in front of the Duty Free store. Taped boxes at their feet, introductions began and I realized that there were a lot of people on the flight heading to Esteli for the event. Pete and Andy were joined by two other retailers, one of which handed me a boxed Cohiba Siglo V. Ashton, E.O. Brands and others were all represented in the crowd as well as the Garcias. Siglo's were cut in our group and waiting to be lit. We made our way outside to wait for two buses (vans) to pick us up for the long trip to Esteli. Pete said "I've got a bottle of Havana Club rum for each of you". Siglo in hand, now lit, and still spent from my trip through the airport, all I could think of was opening mine.

Before we piled into our bus, someone mentioned that we should have picked up something to drink on the ride. There were 12 of us on our bus, with another 10 or so in the first van. Stuck in traffic trying to leave the airport we joked that we had a box of rum at least. I offered up mine and said "We'll have to pass it around old school - no glasses". A minute later we are cutting the tape from our box of rum in the back of the bus and we pull out a bottle of Havana Club 7 year. After a ceremonial pour on the ground to honor those who have passed before us (or to Mother Earth - both worthy traditions for consumption of libations), the bottle began it's first journey from the back of the bus forward. By the time it returned, more than half was gone and we were still making our way from the airport. Before we left Managua, it was gone.

The Rumbus had begun. It's a long drive from Managua to Esteli (150 km, much of which is slow travel) and before we knew it, another bottle made it's way from box to ceremonial pouring to consumption. The Rumbus continued - stories were pouring from those onboard - a few songs broke out. A bundle of cigars appeared and was passed around the bus. My Father Le Bijou, unbanded and fresh from the drying room. This was going to be a memorable journey.

Half way to Esteli, a traffic jam stopped the van in front and they got off to bring us bottles of water and find out what was going on behind them. Everyone stretched a bit and we picked up at least one new passenger who transferred from the van. I don't think we lost any in trade. The sights of the Nicaraguan road that I remembered from last year swept by and were replaced with the Rumbus onboard. This was the beginning of a group that is used to working hard all day, every day, relaxing in celebration.

In all, the Rumbus consumed what I think was four bottles of Havana Club, finally breaking into the 5 year variety. By the time we arrived at Los Arcos hotel in Esteli, we were all ready for some food! After dropping off our bags in our assigned rooms, everyone met in the restaurant for much needed grub. A few continued with some local libations, Tona cerveza and of course, more rum - although at least mixed with Coca-Cola. Another bundle of cigars is passed around the table. Unbanded robustos from the drying room. Everyone takes turns guessing what they are.

"Bus leaves at six" for the factory. It is now early evening and the sun is low. A group of us stand outside the restaurant on the corner, smoking cigars. The vans are boarded and we are off for the factory.

It's almost dark even though it's early. The My Father Cigars factory is only a couple of miles down the road. We pass the old factory, Tabacalera Cubana - and arrive at the gates of a modern complex many times it's size. Security opens the gates and we drive past two buildings on the grounds, each of which are many times the size of the old factory. And they are only a few of the buildings on the campus. In the back is our destination - an outdoor pavilion where lunch is served each day for the workers. A DJ is set up as well as a table full of ... well ... rum and other drinks along with some more appetizers. Groups break off and mingle. Music is playing in the background. Brand owners and factory representatives and clients are all sharing stories, but the business talk is at a minimum. This seems like a time to simply rejoice in the entire business of cigars and the passion that exists in everyone here.

Pepin arrives to much applause and it's only a matter of minutes before he picks up the microphone from the DJ. I'm thinking he may say a few words. Instead, he breaks into song - is joined by Erik - and the mood is set for the rest of the evening at the pavilion.

We are joined by Colin from European Cigar Cult Journal and Manny Ferrero from Ashton, both of whom shared stories and listened to ours. Talk turned from business to cigars to food to travel to life in general. "Enjoying life is an art" I state - it's a line from a one-man show I wrote - and it's apparent here. I turned 45 just a day ago and among the many birthday wishes still this night, I am feeling fortunate to be at this place at this time.

By the time we got back to the hotel, I was more than ready for a night's sleep.

29 Aug, 2009

Morning came early as the time difference is two hours from Eastern time since they don't do Daylight Savings time here. The room is quiet and I'm happy for a warm shower. There's a breakfast buffet waiting with coffee and I pack a cigar in my pocket and head through the lobby to find the food. Kickstarted with coffee, converstation and much needed breakfast - we are told that we are going to the factory at 11. We gather outside for a morning smoke and discuss, among other things, what to wear. Hey, we didn't know what to expect at the factory today and being told 'nice casual' could mean anything.

The bus and van were filled this morning, and we were some of the first to arrive at the factory, which was now glowing in the daylight sun. The flags of Nicaragua and Cuba both flew high in front of the buildings. A line was forming outside to sign the guestbook and enter the lobby. Inside, Pepin and Jaime Garcia were there to greet each guest with a proud grin. The lobby was decked with leather chairs and a My Father Cigars mural and photos on the walls. We were handed a wood case that housed a 3 pack of My Father cigars and headed down a hallway to a large, open room filled with seating for the ceremony.

This room was actually the rolling room. Everything was moved out and replaced with infinite rows of seating for the opening ceremony. I'm not sure how much bigger this room is than the old factory, but many times over is what I'd assume. A long table is set in front with a podium for the speakers. People begin filling the room. The factory workers are filing into the second half of the room and other guests are filling the seats in the front.

In search of water, Pete returns with another unbanded cigar from the drying room. "What's this?", I ask. "Just smoke it", I'm told with a grin. Is this La Verite, I wonder? As I was lighting it, I heard Andy talking about it. Yes, it was. I had smoked L'Esprit de Verite (the robusto version and a slightly different blend), but had yet to see this one. Excitement filled the first puff of smoke and for the next few minutes I don't even see that the room is filling up rapidly. Although it won't even be ready until late next spring, this cigar is intoxicating. They are currently resting in boxes of 500 in the drying room. Containing only leaves from La Finca Estrella, Pepin's first farm that I got to visit last year, and all from the same crop in 2008. These were the plants that were but a foot high when I visited - and now they are the sole component in this cigar. The smoke is already complex and will last us through the entire ceremony.

The ceremony lasted about an hour, starting with the introductions of the Garcia family and the others seated at the front table, including a priest who would bless the opening of the factory. Each spoke in turn, beginning with the blessing and ending with Jaime Garcia. Between speakers were traditional dances performed by local dancers and songs performed on classical guitar. We stood as the anthems of Nicaragua and Cuba were played. Jaime and Janny Garcia danced and Pepin joined in. Although the entire ceremony was in Spanish and many of us were not able to translate it all - the overwhelming feeling in the room was that of a very humble pride. Tears could be seen at the front table as the priest blessed the factory and as the family members spoke. And laughter and smiles dominated the interludes of music and dance.

After Jaime spoke, he and Pepin headed for a side door that had been adorned with a yellow ribbon for the ceremonial cutting. Those with cameras swarmed to the door as well as the local media. The ceremonial start to an already successful venture.

Pepin lead the cameras on a tour of the many buildings on the facility with John Gonzalez close by interpretting in English. We were lead through the many structures that make up this self-contained factory. Every aspect of making a cigar is covered here. From the storing and curing of tobacco, to the stripping and sorting of leaves, to rolling and banding and even box making - everything is here. The buildings are huge and capable of much more capacity than is already utilized in all that is stored there.

At the end of the tour, we arrive at another large bulding that usually contains the sorting and banding tables. They have been removed to set up for a luncheon in grand style.

Adjacent to this room, is the drying room and after we pick a table to settle at - Pete finds someone with a key and takes us in for a peak. The Verite cabinets are stored high when we first walk in. Rows and rows of shelves are filled with bundles of 50 cigars, each with a label that must mean something to those involved. Pete searches for another upcoming release, the monster coming this October - the Drac. We follow in anticipation and wonder how he's going to track them down in this maze. With a little help, he does - and hands us each one. Smiles plastered to our faces, we follow along while he looks for another - the Tatuaje Black torpedo that will eventually be placed in a tubo. A few minutes later, we are now holding two more upcoming cigars - the Drac and Tatuaje Black tubo and heading back to our table.

The meal is wonderful and the drinks are pouring. We all light a Tatuaje Black Torpedo after taking a few pictures of them first. Everyone except for Pete that is - his Black Torp was handed to Pepin when he approached our table asking for a stick. Another amazing first puff. Straight from the drying room. Memories of last year's Tatuaje Black release are shared and this one is just as good. The wrapper is even more tasty. It's a hair higher priming, we're told. It also comes from Pepin's farm, La Finca Estrella, this time.

As dinner comes to a close and we are debating lighting up the Drac, Pete dissappears into the drying room again to retrieve another Black Torpedo and Drac for himself (his Drac was handed out during dinner as well - to Colin from ECCJ). He returns with two more cigars for each of us - the upcoming Verocu tubo and a Frank Undressed and the remaining bundle of Dracs. "For this evening". Shaking our heads, we now realize that we have all of the new cigars. (Black Tubo, Verocu Tubo, Drac, Frank Undressed - and smoked La Verite earlier) I borrow Pete's extra Black Tubo and line the four up for a quick photo.

The Drac is amazing. Refined blend with a little 'bite' in the beautiful, dark wrapper. (pun intended) Pete lights the Frank Undressed and tries to convince me to put the Drac down and smoke the new Frank instead. I assure him that I'll get to it in no time at all.

After some extended conversation, Pete asked a driver to take us to La Finca Estrella to see the new Rottweiler pup there. It's not growing season, so the fields are empty. In fact, it's the end of rainy season, as witnessed on our bumpy drive down the unpaved road to the farm. It's a short visit, but I can see how much bigger the fields are from just a year and a half ago. The soil is rich - overturned and black as coal - waiting to be planted again. Between planting tobacco there - they plant beans to return nutrients to the soil and to harvest for the workers in the factory to take home.

The rain stops on our way back to the factory - a stone's throw but a long bumpy ride to get there. By the time we are back, most of the guests are gone. The party out back for the factory employees is still frolicking. Inside the luncheon room, the Garcia table is alive with songs breaking out (the guitar player from the ceremony is at the table now).

I am now ready to light the Frank Undressed and settle in again. A few people join our table next to the Garcias and we are back to listening and telling stories. The Frank Undressed is the same cigar with another wrapper? Well, that makes it an entirely different cigar yet again. The blend comes through even more without the broadleaf wrapper from the original Frank released last year. This one is just as special. We saw the white boxes that will house 10 of these sticks while at the trade show in New Orleans. We all agree that it is incredible and that we are incredibly lucky to have a chance to smoke it here at it's source.

I think the others saved their Verocu tubo torpedo to savor at home, but I ended up smoking mine before we left the factory that day. (Yeah - that's five sticks while I was there - none of which have been released yet) The torpedo is a great size for the Verocu blend. Sort of between the East and West flavors from last year because of the size. (All were the same blend, btw) This will be yet another huge hit. Did I mention the tubos? The black is in a black tubo and the Verocu will be in a red tubo, 10 to a box. Hopefully November this year. We saw the tubos on display at the trade show as well and they look great.

Watching the Garcia table I'm reminded of stories about the relaxing Sundays in Cuba. Family gathered to eat, sing and dance the day away - celebrating after a week of work. This was one of those days - one of those moments - when you feel lucky to be surrounded by family - even if it's an extended family as was the case at our table of likeminded souls.

When it was time to go, we stashed our cigars for the evening and to take home in our bag and headed outside. A few words in Spanish and a few minutes later and Pete is holding another bunch of cigars. "For later".

Back at the hotel there was an outside patio on the third floor - rooftop. The night progressed much in the same way the weekend had gone - and the celebration continued. Chairs were gathered and jokes were told. The remaining bottles were opened and many more cigars were passed around. Pete and Erik told jokes - Erik repeating a few in Spanish for those who were looking at us laughing and wondering what could have been so funny. It was an early evening by the time most of us retired to our rooms - but it was a long, wonderful day. We promised that the trip back to the airport tomorrow morning would NOT turn into another Rumbus - and the next day we kept that promise.

To recap the day brings a smile even now. It wasn't just the special cigars we were treated to by Pete - although that would be enough for any of us to smile about. It was the humble and grateful attitude that was apparent on the faces of all those involved with the factory and all of us lucky enough to be a part of this celebration, that I will remember. The feeling that success is a true reward for hard work is easily forgotten in our modern culture. I am thankful to be able to see that a modern success can come to fruition through the eyes of a traditional past.

Enjoy,

-Dan
1 Sep., 2009

NHC in Esteli

When you have the opportunity to visit Nicaragua with Pete Johnson, Pepin and Jaime Garcia - you simply say "YES".


Feb. 4, 2008:

In Miami:

With a 3 hour layover in Miami on Monday morning, Pete and I were able to make it to the El Rey de los Habanos factory on Calle Ocho (8th St. in Miami) for some early morning smokes (Cabaiguan) and Cafe Cubano. I was able to meet everyone at the factory and watch the hurried pace of a dozen rollers turning out my favorite sticks, and see completed wheels being stored before packaging ... sit amidst the boxes of tobacco from Nicaragua in the back and drink my Cafe Cubano and watch the tobacco being unpacked and sorted. For an hour visit, it was enough to put a smile on any cigar lover's jet lagged face. On our drive back to the airport, Amilcar (Pepin's son-in-law) called Nicaragua and told them what time our flight was due in. Pete had him ask if they could roll some fresh Pepin Blue Label Lanceros at the factory to bring in the car for our drive to Esteli. (Like I'm gonna argue with that)

After making it back to the airport and through security once again, we approached the gate and were greated by Charlie Torano (Torano Cigars). "You on this flight, too?", he asked. "Everyone in the business must be on this flight". We rounded the corner to find owners from 4 other cigar companies (CAO, Drew Estates, Torano, Oliva) on their way to Nicaragua. The scene was like a mini-RTDA, exchanging stories and news while we waited to get a status on our late-departing flight.

We're not even out of the U.S. yet and I already felt like I had a full day!

So, we arrive at Managua airport early afternoon, and it was a generally good idea to stop at the Duty Free shop. Cuban Rum! Bought a bottle of Havana Club and Ron Varadero to take to Pepin. Byron from the Tabacalera Cubana (TACUBA) factory is waiting in a car with Blue Label Lanceros for us to enjoy on the 1.5 hour ride from Managua to Esteli. The rest of the trip begins ...

Arriving at TACUBA:
The fresh lancero is outstanding as we travel through open areas - mountains on the horizon and small towns speckling the road. Two lanes the entire route, we went from 120 kph down to 30 kph constantly, passing trucks, motorcycles, bicycles, horses and plenty of people on foot. The road was busy, but I was in another world in the back seat - picking apart as much Spanish as I could from the conversation up front. "What is the verb for smoking?", I ask. The next 5 minutes had me conjugating all forms of the verb "fumar". "Yo fumo" / "El fumar" / "Nosotros Fumamos" (I smoke, he smokes, we smoke) OK - it was probably about as exciting for Byron as counting state license plates was for our parents when we went on road trips as kids.

Arriving at the factory, a humble building standing out because of the fresh aqua color paint and Pepin logos on it, we pulled right up front to a gate and proceeded inside to find Pepin and Jaime were off to visit the farm (more on that later). Pete made his way around to greet everyone and introduce me as I tried not to let my eyes wander to the various jobs going on around me - or to the piles of fresh tobacco on every rolling and sorting table - or to the piles of fresh sticks being packaged. Hey - I have good peripheral vision - I paid attention to the introductions as well!

Pepin and Jaime were not long before arriving and I shook hands and gave Pepin the two pack box of rum from the airport. "Para tu", I said. He smiled and I hoped that what I actually said was "for you" and not something embarassing.


La Riqueza:
Straight to business at hand. Off to the office area where Pete explained the packaging of his new brand, La Riqueza. A factory manager came up with some freshly rolled sticks to taste. They were La Riqueza. I had to stop for a moment and remind myself where I was. Between the jet lag, the excitement of the day to this point, and the fact that a new product was being handed to me to taste with Pete, Pepin and Jaime ... I thought a flight attendant was going to wake me up at any minute. But I was here, in Esteli, lighting what looked like the most beautiful stick in the factory. A dark, Connecticut broadleaf wrapper (first time it is being used in the factory) encased what smelled like a cigar lover's heaven. "We're going to try a couple of different versions of this so I can make sure the blend I did last month is the right one for this cigar", explained Pete.

We did smoke many La Riqueza sticks over the next 24 hours. All I can say is that this brand is going to be hot. It's blended for the aficianado. The wrapper gives it strength and flavor and the blend is rich and complex. The name is an old Cuban brand from the 1930's. It will be traditionally box pressed in dress boxes (I saw the art for the boxes - it's beautiful - from the original artwork). Hopefully available before RTDA this year in 5 vitolas.

Obviously, the afternoon went by so fast all I can remember is smoking La Riqueza around the table with Pete, Pepin and Jaime - drinking "Coke Light" (diet coke) - and talking about the many details of the packaging, etc. Before we left, Pete asked for some fresh sticks to be rolled in a different size for tomorrow morning.
With the ends of our second cigar in hand, we left the office area, through the factory which was now being swept and no longer a bustle of activity from the rollers - and headed to the car.


Before Dinner:
Pepin drove us to his apartment where we had fresh snacks waiting and he broke out the two bottles of rum. We opened the Ron Varadero and grabbed sticks from the bundle that Pepin brought back with him. I lit it and immediately recognized it as Pepin's Black Label robusto, even though the freshly rolled sticks had a distinct flavor to them as well. We sat and talked for another hour before heading off to dinner - sticks in hand, mouth and pockets!

At the restaurant, another table of cigar business folks. During dinner, in came the Drew Estates entourage and everyone stood up again to meet and greet. Steaks and Tona (nicaraguan beer) along with freshly made frittes (fries). It was a manly feast, complete with cigars during and after.
The day has finally caught up with me. It's early. 9:30! But we're going to the factory at 7AM so I'm hoping we're heading back to the hotel at this point.

I am asleep in my humble twin bed room in a matter of minutes. It's not even 10PM.

Feb. 5, 2008:

Morning:
I'm awake. Where's the hot water? What's with that funky shower head? I put it all together when I turned the water on. The shower head is a water heater. It worked well and that's all that mattered.

Byron picks us up at the hotel to go to the factory. It's just after 7AM and the place is a flurry of activity. The same as it was in the afternoon yesterday. We go upstairs with Jaime for some Cafe Cubano and in come fresh La Riqueza sticks. Much more smoking occurs. My reaction is the same. This stick is incredible. I'm now well rested. I am not day-dreaming about where I might be. I know I am sitting here and everything seems completely normal about it. Pete and Pepin and Jaime made me feel welcome from moment I arrived.

Now I can validate my first impression from yesterday. La Riqueza means "the Wealth" in Spanish. How fitting. It is a wealth of flavor and does exactly what a great cigar should do - remind you of all of the good things in life. Wealth means many things. It's not just financial. I am sitting in a humble factory in an extremely humble part of the world, and the wealth I am feeling is enough to overcome the best of us.

With more talk of upcoming Tatuaje offerings came news of three new Gaupos being released in a few months: Guapos Junior - 4 5/8 x 42, Guapos 46 - 5 5/8 x 46, Guapos RX - 5 1/4 x 50. All with pig tails and Sungrown wrappers like the current Guapo - 5 5/8 X 54. The current Guapo will be retired for now. The remaining boxes at Tatuaje will be the end of that run. I am excited about the new sizes, as the Cabaiguan Guapo is one of my house favorites, and all three sizes should prove to be spectacular.

Breakfast:
A few hours pass and we are off to Pepin's apartment for breakfast. Eggs over bread, sandwich style, and fresh juice made with local fruit. More smoking ensues in the living room and we are off to the factory again.

Pete finds a couple of Tatuaje Black and we treat ourselves to lighting them for the informal tour around the facility. Pete takes me into a curing room where wrapper leaf is burning off the last remnants of ammonia. I almost pass out. ;-) I saw the rolling area that we've been walking through - the cold room where stacks of wheels are being stored before packaging them (about 30 days) - and the packaging room where cello is being added by hand to all of Pepin's sticks and various others.

"I need Verocu labels", Jaime tells Pete. He shows us a couple dozen boxes that are left in the packaging area. "No labels". Pete thinks about this as we finish walking around. Sitting in the front lobby, waiting for Pepin to go to lunch, Pete says "Foil. Let's put them in foil. No bands. Just foil, like the Cazadores. Good for aging." "It won't fit", Jaime says. (the next 5 minutes are a series of experiments with a foil sheet until they go to the cold room and grab a wheel of 50 verocu) "There you go - perfect", says Pete. "No problem", Jaime says and tells someone to get on it.

Over the course of the day - I talked my way into buying all of those remaining Verocu cabinets. It's perfect. It denotes the end of the East/West run of Verocu. The last few remaining cabinets will consist of unbanded cigars in foil - perfect for aging. Pete finally agreed. I hope to have them in a few weeks. Twenty some East Coast No. 2 and maybe ten West Side No. 1 cabinets. Sweet!

To Lunch and Finca la Estrella:
Pepin shows up and we head to lunch at another local establishment. Cuban sandwich for me - pork steaks for most everyone else. Who walks in? The Drew Estate entourage again! Small town. We're smoking La Riqueza again. On the patio. Orange soda in hand. We comment on what a great combination a rich, flavorful cigar is with orange soda! All agree.

After lunch we are off to the site of the NEW factory that Jaime is building up the road. There is a box factory already built and being used to build all of the boxes they are using currently. Ground has been broken for the factory building and walls are up for the two large tobacco barns that will be on the grounds as well. When finished - the entire production process will be on location there. A cafeteria for the workers - everything. And production capacity will greatly increase. We tour the box factory and the rest of the site. It's going to be beautiful. Within two years, all of the parts will be complete. Tobacco barns will be complete soon.

From the new factory site, we continue down the road to "Finca la Estrella" (the star farm). If you didn't already know, Pepin and Jaime have planted tobacco this year. Three fields. Within minutes I'm standing in a field of fresh tobacco plants, ankle high. "How long", I ask. They will be done growing in 40 days or so. Six feet high - 18 large tobacco leaves.

It's hard to do justice to the tradition throughout the factory and life of Pepin. But here at the farm - it's easy to describe. At the front, a tobacco barn is being built alongside a finished one. Traditional log and bark construction. Exactly like Cuba, Pepin says. "The tobacco needs to breathe while it's drying". It could have been steel and concrete. Probably would have been cheaper to build. But this structure looks like something from the early 1900's in Cuba. I look across the field and two ox are being steered through the tobacco plants, pulling a single blade plow to dig up the earth between the rows. (Yes, there's a John Deere tractor sitting out front - but that'll be used for something less traditional!) I approached Pepin and tried my best spanish language elements to explain how much I respected the tradition that he follows. Jaime coined the phrase "The Art, Tradition and Style of Cuba" to describe what they do. I can't think of anything better.

Chicharones:

After spending some more time at the factory, we are off to Pepin's again for more pre-dinner snacks. Fresh Chicharones (fried pork skins) and homemade potato chips are waiting for us with the bottle of Havana Club (most of the other bottle was finished last night). Pete and I are smoking Tatuaje Black in a different vitola that he asked one of the rollers to do for us. (Please stop drooling - I did enough of that for everyone - and yes, it is just as incredible in another size) I'm staring at the chicarones thinking the are fried pork skins, but other than the snack food kind, I'd never had them. "You have to try these" is everyone's opinion. Incredible. Salty as anything, but incredible. The Havana Club is good - although the Varadero was better. 7 yr Varadero vs. 5 yr Havana Club isn't a fair comparison, though. Talk turns to Cuban Cigars. Jaime is passionate in saying that he smokes what he makes. He and Pepin start throwing out vitolas left and right - I hear "Tatuaje Regios" multiple times and look over at Pepin next to me on the couch, who appears to be repeating it like a mantra while smiling and shaking his head as if nothing being talked about could beat a Regio. I smile and and utter a simple "Si, Si, Regios y Havana Cazadores". Pepin nods in agreement. Jaime even lights up a Cohiba Maduro Robusto and passes it around, along with a Romeo y Julieta Ediccion Limitada. I have to say, after all of the sticks I've smoked in the last 24 hours, the Cohiba did nothing for me. The RyJ reminded me of La Riqueza. But it wasn't as good as La Riqueza.

This seemed like a perfect time to ask Pepin and Jaime what their favorite vitolas were in their 6 lines. Like the "Pete's Pick" sampler that I have for Tatuaje online, I wanted to create "Pepin's Picks and Jaime's Picks" samplers. They obliged. There were two sticks in common, JJ Sublime and Blue Label Robusto. I'll be putting up those 6 vitola samplers as soon as the next DPG order arrives. (I ordered all 6 lines - all vitolas!)

We all grab what we're smoking and head off for dinner again.
Back to the same place as lunch - this time I got the pork dish that Pepin had for lunch. Awesome. More Tona, more smokes. More cigar talk. No Drew Estates guys? They must be on their way.

Pete and I sat in the lobby of the hotel and finished a late night smoke. A sign nearby read "Area Fumado".

I can't explain the overload in my brain by then. There are sense memories that we gain when we experience things. Cigars, wine and food are sense memories waiting to be recorded. But nothing can record a memory like being around the raw elements: the tobacco, the grapes, the kitchen.
I'm off to bed while my brain struggles to categorize all of these memories.




Feb. 6th, 2008:

Last Morning:

Back to the factory at 7AM again. Pepin walks in and sits down in the front lobby - facing the roller's tables. He smokes and watches, with an intense look and a proud half-smile.

We sit and drink Cafe Cubano (I drink too much this morning) and smoke a few last cigars.

We head to Pepin's for breakfast again. Same as yesterday, different blend of juice. Humble. Perfect. The election results of Super Tuesday are on the TV after breakfast. Oh, now I'm starting to remember we have to go back today. It's in Spanish, but the analysis is the same as it is here. What groups voted for which candidate, etc. So complex an analysis. So cold. So very different than the last two days. I stare at the TV and I'm brought back to a world that I was fortunate to get away from for a while.

I was able to visit with passionate, humble, traditionally hard working folks for the last two days and I was right at home. Maybe that's what draws me to the cigar. I think about all of the people involved with making a single stick - from the farmer to the packaging department - the hours spent on every aspect of it. I've thought about this many times. I try to take the time to enjoy each one with the passion that goes into making them. It's calming. It's grounding. It takes us away from the hurried world we live in.

Surely, it was no coincidence that La Riqueza was a reason for the trip - because I leave feeling like a richer person. The wealth of knowledge that was shared, the wealth of tradition that I experienced and the wealth of respect that I have for Pete, Pepin and Jaime have brought me 'la riqueza'.

Enjoy,

Dan